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Putting The Buzz Back In Your Buzzer

The ringer you find installed in the Swedish made Ericofons used around the world are the buzzer type. These tend to be very reliable and very seldom fail. They do, however, get "tired". If your buzzer makes intermittent sound, or no sound at all, you can rejuvenate it with these steps

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Start by loosening (but not removing) the four screws in the dial face that hold the shell on, remove the shell.

buzz1.jpg (28027 bytes) The buzzer is situated on the top of the chassis. The screw in the center holds the "cap" on. A spring underneath the cap holds the cap up off the body of the buzzer. How far the cap is held up depends on the setting of the screw in the top middle. The more you back off this screw, the higher the cap sits.

This is how you adjust the sound of the buzzer. A cap held close to the body produces a soft, fast, buzzing sound. A cap adjusted further away from the body produces a louder, raspy sound.

For initial adjustment, I recommend turning the screw down snug (not tight!), then backing off 3/4 of a turn. Then adjust the sound from here.

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In this picture, with the cap removed, you can see (sort of) three indentations in the body of the buzzer. You need to align the tabs on the spring in these when reassembling the buzzer.

buzz3.jpg (15521 bytes) The spring is a brass ring with three tangs pointing inwards. The points of these tangs should be about 3/8" (about 9mm) in the air when placed on a flat surface. As the spring ages and gets "tired" they tend to flatten out with time. Bend the tangs up where they meet the outer ring

(You can see the three tabs on the outer ring that match up with the slots in the body of the buzzer in this picture.)

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Here's a profile of a set of springs that are about where they should be.Here's a profile of a set of springs that are about where they should be.

transmitter4.jpg (16133 bytes) To put the chassis back into the shell, turn it upside down and lower the chassis into the shell watching to be sure the screws line up where they should be and the line cord stress relief (metal tab) is held in place on the chassis.

If you took the screws out completely at the beginning, make sure you put the long ones in front (near the transmitter) and the short ones in back (near the line cord).

crack.jpg (21256 bytes) Important....

The cracks you see in the faceplates of Ericofons are the result of over tightening the four mounting screws. When you put the chassis of your phone back into the case, only snug the screws enough to hold it in place. Use very little pressure when doing this or you will crack your faceplate.


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